Karaton YOGYAKARTA

It is located in the center of the city of Yogyakarta or just Yogya as the local people call it. Karaton means a place where the Ratu-king lives, other word is Kedaton, with the same meaning. In the Javanese teachings, it has a deep philosophical meaning.

The architect designer of this palace was Sultan Hamengkubuwono I himself, who was also the founder of the kingdom of NGAYOGYAKARTA HADININGRAT. His skill in architecture was appreciated by the dutch scientist - DR. Pigeund and DR. Adam who adored him as " the architect of his brother-Pakubuwono II of Surakarta".

The first king moved to his huge and magnificent Karaton on October 7, 1756. Although there are some European style of some parts of the building, structurally this is the vivid example of Javanese palace architecture.

The 14.000 sq. m of the Karaton Yogya has deep philosophical meaning with all its building, courts, carving, trees, and location. This is a Karaton full of significant symbols of human life.

Usually visitors are coming from MALIOBORO STREET, southward through the Alun-alun (north square). In order to understand perfectly well the symbolic meaning of the Karaton, one should walk from south to north. Start from Krapyak, a village of about 3 km south of Karaton.


SKETCH






1. In the old days, Krapyak was a raised brick-stage, used by the sultans to watch his families and soldiers to hunting deers. Krapyak is located nearby small village, Mijen - from the word wiji means seed, symbolizing life, soul of human beings.[back to sketch]
2. Walk northward, through a straight street where on left and right sides grow the trees of asem becomes sengsem means adorable and tanjung becomes disanjung means cared. This is symbolizing life of child in a good path : adored and cared by the parents.
3. Arrive at the main entrance (Plengkung) gading depicting the child has become a teenager, adorable and neatly make-up.

[back to sketch]

4. At the south square (Alun-alun) in the southern part there are two waringin (banyan) trees. The name of the trees are WOK abbreviation from the word BEWOK means beard. In the middle of this south square, there are two other waringin trees the name are Supit Urang meaning chopsticks of a shrimp, surrounded by fence in the form of archer's bow, symbolizing the sacred part of human body. So it must be protected (in the fence). The fence's bow form is characteristic of a girl and boy.[back to sketch]
5. Look around the south square, there are five streets entering the square, imagining of five human sense. The square is covered by sands, it means that human life has not been arranged. Other trees grow there namely kweni become wani (courage) and pakel (adult), meaning the child has become an adult who has courage to choose the partner.[back to sketch]
6. Further north, it is the Siti Hinggil (elevated land), surrounded by gayam trees, symbolizing the youngsters feeling in love, safe and happy. In the middle of Siti Hinggil (a large open veranda), there is a Selo Gilang (a square elevated stone), where the Sultan sit when receiving visitors from relatives or subordinates. In that case, describing a wedding-chair where the young couples sit side by side.
The trees planted here are :

Mangga Cempora, mangga is javanese language for please ; cempora describes mix.
Soka, imagining pleasure.
Both trees have plenty of red and white colors (symbolizing woman and man sperm). All these are symbols of a marriage of young adult couple, in a safe, pleasant and lovable atmosphere, they should make love to produce human beings.[back to sketch]
7. In the left and right side of Siti Hinggil there are bathroom. The Siti Hinggil surrounded by a street name Pamengkang, showing the positon when someone is sitting or lying with separated legs.[back to sketch]
8. Go further north, there is a yard named : Kemandungan, from the word kandung (pregnant) and the four trees planted here are :

Pelem becomes gelem, that is the wish comes from both side.
Kepel becomes kempel, unite mentally and physically.
Jambu Dersono, dersono describing to be loved by other people.
Cengkir Gading, a small yellowish coconut tree. The coconut used in the ceremony when a mother is seven month pregnant.
In the left and right side at this yard, there are street aiming to go out side, this is imagining the negative influences which could occur during the growth of the baby in his mother womb.[back to sketch]
9. Now, passing the Regol (gate) Gadungmlati, arrive in Kemagangan. The road is narrow in the beginning and then becomes wider and brighter. That means the baby is safely born, growing to be a man facing his future life. There are kitchen in this premises, named gebulen and sekullangen, describing that for the child's growth there are available a lot of food. The street on the left and right side of the premises are reflecting, the negative factors which could influence the child life. The child must be educated properly, to the right paths, to the north, to the Karaton, where the Sultan lives doing his duties. In Karaton he could attain his goals of life, therefore he has to work diligently, with good and correct manner, faithful not to break the rules. He must also always remember and serve to God almighty.[back to sketch]
10. In Karaton one has to follow the steps taken by the Sultan or Sri Sultan (the title is usually called by Yogyanese) before and after the ceremony of Grebeg in the north of Siti Hinggil (organized three times in a year, explaination of Grebeg follows in other articles). Sri Sultan steps out from Sri Manganti gate, facing the bangsal (hall) Ponconiti, ponco means five senses ; niti means to inspect. The yard is called Kamandungan (collect), planted with trees of Tanjung, Kepel (unite), Cengkir Gading - yellow coconut (the holy color of God). That's mean that Sri Sultan has to concentrate his five senses and mind because he is going to worship the holy God.[back to sketch]

Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX

11. He is entering the gate (Regol) Brojonolo (brojo means weapon; nala means heart) and sees a stone wall. "Renteng mentog baturana" (renteng means worry; baturana means stone divider) which describes that Sri Sultan should not be worried to implement a just government. There is a tree - Jambu Tlampok Arum (Arum means fragrant), meaning "Speak always nicely, so your name will be famous all over the world".

[back to sketch]

12. Sri Sultan is now in North of Siti Hinggil, in the south, four trees of kemuning (ning - clear), then he steps to bangsal Witono (a seat in heaven) could also means begin. That is imagining "clear your thoughts and begin to pray".[back to sketch]
13. The place have to be arranged by two subordinates by names of Wignya (clever), and Derma (destiny), symbolizing " You should be clever to sit in your throne as you are destined to represent God Almighty to rule your people".
14. Bangsal (hall) Manguntur Tangkil : a high place to worship God. The Bangsal Manguntur Tangkil is located inside the Bangsal Witono, this is describing that inside the body, there is soul or life spirit. Sri Sultan is ready to meditate (samadi) the gamelan (Javanese musical instruments) by the name Kyai Monggang is played slowly and rhythmically following his breathing in meditation. The meditator has to arrange his breathing and concentrate solemnly by closing the nine holes of his body.[back to sketch]
15. In front of Siti Hinggil, there are Tarub Ageng (great, glory) and pagelaran, in the old days it was a place for the Patih (king's chief-minister) and other subordinates to wait before meeting Sri Sultan for audience. Gelar here means bright. That's describing that anybody who is meditating, submitting his/her life totally to the hands of God is in a great and bright path, as a gift from God.[back to sketch]
16. Alun-alun (the North Square) with the two waringin trees are a comparison with someone's experience in samadi. He/she is feeling calmly and happily, as if he/she is a twin, microcosmos unite macrocosmos. He /she has to go on with the samadi, avoiding temptations.[back to sketch]
17. Go further north, there are :
Beringharjo Market :
symbolizing temptations and obstacles during samadi, in the market there are plenty of delicious foods, jewels, luxurious things, beautiful women and handsome men.
Kepatihan :
is the office of the patih, the sultan's chief-officer. It's a place where power is executed ; rank, promotion of officers are decided and finance is arranged.
Tugu :
Pillar, symbolizing the acceptance of samadi. If the meditator could reach tugu safely, he could reject the temptations of usual world desire and lust. Such as material wealth, high ranking position, delicious foods and drinks, a lust toward opposite sex and more over he/she always does good and correct thinking and conducts, by God blessing, the meditator could attain his goal in samadi, the Javanese says : in a position of "Manunggaling kawulo Gusti", manunggal means unity; kawulo means servant, human beings; Gusti means God. So, manunggaling kawulo Gusti means "The spiritual unity of the man and God, the creature and creator". Everything could be happened by the wish of God Almighty.
[back to sketch]
18. The above explains the philosophical meaning of Karaton Yogyakarta. It is worth to note that daily situation in the Karaton is alive. The Karaton is attended by dignified and elderly retainers wearing traditional Javanese dress.
19. Now Sri Sultan is heading back to the palace, through Kemandungan yard, where some keben (shut) trees grow, meaning 'shut your eyes and ears, as you should be ready to go to die (to another world).
20. He is greeted by his wife and children, and two young ministers in Sri Manganti Hall, offering some drinks. This is depicting two angels are ready to show him the way as in accordance with Al-Qur'an.[back to sketch]
21. Bangsal Trajumas which stands in front of Sri Manganti, means "You must know what is right and wrong. Don't think anymore of anything in this earth, your wife and family, you are leaving them".[back to sketch]
22. In the south, there is a building called 'Purworetno' meaning "We must always remember where do we come from".[back to sketch]
23. He passes the gate Donopratopo, means "A good man always gives something to others voluntarily and he is able to erase lust".


24. The two statues of giants, the one has a good manner, the second is a bad giant. Showing "You must be able to differentiate, God and evil".
25. Sri Sultan goes to Bangsal Kencono (Golden Pavilion), describing the unity of human beings and God.[back to sketch]
26. Then, he enters the pavilion Praba Yeksa. Praba means light, bright. Yeksa means big. In this pavilion there is a lamp which is always burning. According to ancient belief, the travel to eternal life is following a light.[back to sketch]
27. Next to Prabayekso is gedong Kuning (yellow house), symbolizing the home of the peaceful spirits in heaven.[back to sketch]



Gedong Kuning

MUSEUM

Inside the Karaton, there is a museum dedicated to the late Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX, the father of the present Sultan Hamengkubuwono X. Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX was a famous political figure and leader in Indonesia. His support and contribution for the Republic of Indonesia to gain independence are sincerely respected and recognized by almost every citizen.

Yogyakarta was temporary capital of Indonesia (1946-1949) and by law is granted the status of special region equals to province. The museum exhibit gilt copies of sacred Pusaka (the heirlooms), gifts from foreign monarchs, gamelan, royal carriages and some photos of the royal families and family tree.

There is a special pavillion dedicated to the active participation of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX for the struggle of Indonesia's independence.
Besides his position as a traditional leader as the Sultan of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat, he was also appointed as the Governor of Yogyakarta Special Region for life by the President of RI.

The Present Governor of Yogyakarta Special Region
The present Sultan Hamengkubuwono X, has been inaugurated in October 3, 1998 as the Governor of Yogyakarta Special Region upon request by the people of Yogyakarta. It is a sign of appreciation for his dedication to the people and the country. In the recently difficult period, Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X, has emerged as one of the national trustworthy leaders for peaceful reformation.

Arts, Cultures, Rituals and Other Information of Karaton Yogyakarta

From traditional leader to Governor of Yogyakarta Special Region.

(Suryo S. Negoro)

Mt. Merapi (2968 m)
With its famous "Puncak Garuda" - Garuda Peak

This fire mountain remains one of the most active and dangerous volcano in the world. It can be seen from its name – Merapi from Javanese world Meru means mountain and Api means fire. The latest eruption
In the early morning of Saturday, July 11, 1998, at 4.59 a.m, the volcano erupted again after days of ominous rumblings and minor tremors. At once, following the explosion, a black smoke rose up to more than 3000 m above its peak, spewing heat clouds and volcanic ash and debris several kilometers away. The ash hit the area as far as 60 Km away on the West of the mountain. Many surrounding towns were blanketed with white ash. The most dangerous killers are the heat clouds. This 3000 0 Celsius heat substance should melt and burnt easily anything found on its way. "Luckily, this cloud blew to an uninhabited area west of the mountain. In 1994 sudden eruption, 66 people of the South-West slope have been killed by this heat cloud.

The local people call this heat cloud in Javanese Wedus Gembel (Wedus – a sheep; gembel – thick curly hair), as it looked like. Usually the local inhabitants should flee from their villages only after seeing the emergence of the "curly sheep", as considered the real menace of the "Merapi Rulers". In 1997, thousand of Merapi villagers have been evacuated when it began spewing ash and lava.

The worst eruption was in 1930 which killed about 1300 people. People did not know exactly how many thousand or even million times, Merapi has been erupted since its birth. In the 10th century, its ashes had buried totally a temple 15 km southward. Probably its unbearable activity had pushed eastward the Hindu Mataram kingdom from Prambanan, central Java to East Java in the 10th century.

But Merapi does not act always as "a bad guy", most of the time "it is a good guy", handsomely gives tremendous fertility to the land, stands strongly guarding the nature

Mountaineering Routes
There are 2 routes lead to Mt. Merapi. The first is thru Yogyakarta from the South, the second is thru the village of Selo, Boyolali from the north.

From Yogyakarta
From the city of Yogya, a climber shall travel to Kaliurang – a small nice 1300 m high mountain resort, 27 Km north of Yogya and then continue to Kimahrejo village, the last village to the top. A guide, sufficient supply (water etc), any information are available here. Normally, it shall take 6 hours of climbing to the peak.

The path should lead to the border of last vegetation, the timberline, Kendit. Going to the peak, walk thru labile and stony paths, the journey is strenuous. On the peak, one can see the sulphur crater and heavenly panoramic views. It is strongly advised to all mountaineers to prepare themselves adequately, before any climbing. Be careful of accident which could happened due to stone sliding or falling down.

Unfortunately this path is closed since November 1994 due to dangerous activities of the mountain, until further notice. If a climber insists, he could climb only until Miji Hill, from where he can enjoy the beautiful nature. A special permit is needed to enter the Miji hill, which is considered as a dangerous area.

Ritual Ceremony

Every year the Karaton – Palace of Yogyakarta gives regular offering in Ngestiaji, north of Kimahrejo village. The ritual starts from the house of mbah (Grand-father) Marijan, a native of the village, assigned by Karaton of Yogya as the gate keeper (Juru Kunci) of Merapi. The offering are meant for the welfare of the Sultan and the people of Yogyakarta and prosperity of the country, to commemorate the coronation of the Sultan. This year is due on November 20 and 21, 1998.

Trekking in Kaliurang
Besides mountain climbing, there are other natural tourist activities, organized to adore the breath-taking beauty of Mt. Merapi. Interested party can easily contact

Vogels Homestay
Jalan Astanamulya 76
Kaliurang, Yogyakarta
Phone. 0274-895208
Contact person: Mr. Christian Awuy, who has developed these activities since 1990 with high dedication.

What are the offer?

Mt. Merapi daily lava Tour.
Starting from 03.00 a.m in the morning until 08.00 am. Including local breakfast in a hut by the side of river Kuning.
The group shall go up to Miji hill, about 1,5 h walk from Vogel’s.
Sunrise can be enjoyed from here, and if lucky, a traveler could see the sliding of the burning lava from the top.
Village Tour
Bushwalk and rice field tour
Quite frankly, these nature oriented outdoor sport and adoration activity have been followed by more and more tourists, local as well as foreign. A traveler could see easily the rivers where the hot lava flows, as in the river of Boyong, in the South slope.

The comments of some travelers are self-explanatory:

"The Merapi got be some kind of myth ……. a great experience to see mother nature so close and it is a must if you visit Yogya" (Martin, Frankfurt)

"Mt. Merapi is very impressive – that lava can really move. Don’t forget warm clothes. It can get really chilly- up there, especially while sitting in the pre-down watching the stars and lava." (Karen, Canada)

From Selo Village, Boyolali
The other route is thru Selo village, from the north of Merapi. This cool hilly village (1500 M high) located on the slopes of Mt. Merapi, in the south and Mt. Merbabu in the north. It’s about 40 Km, north-west of Solo city.

The climbers could prepare supplies in this village, there are some nice accommodations here. Tour guide is also available, by contacting Pak Warsito of Lencoh village, Selo. Normally, the climbing to the peak should take 6 hours. The way back to Selo, is approximately 4 hours.

Most climbers prefer to start early hours at 2.00 or 3.00 a.m from Selo base camp, catching the sunrise from the peak and avoiding thick fog which usually appears mid-day.

The climbing

First from the village base camp, the climbers shall walk 1 km upward to a small Joglo house.
Then take a small path thru tobacco and vegetable gardens, pass a pine wood until "Pole 1".
From Pole 1 to Pole 2, walk thru open hill with strong wind.
From Pole 2 until a place locally known as Pasar Bubrah (Ruined Market), the vegetation are rare, the wind blows very strongly.
It has to be noted that Selo trekking is very steep from the start, a climber should walk carefully thru a small sandy and stony path with deep ravine on the right or left side. Pasar Bubrah, is a stone plain right under the peak. It shall take another hour to climb to top of Mt. Merapi. One has to climb adroitly, passing thru the labil sharp stones and windy road.
The Garuda Peak


Reaching the peak, a stony plain with gigantic active crater, with strong smell of sulphur vapor. The most top peak is a huge stone in the form of Garuda Bird (Indonesia mythological bird) looks like a flying Eagle. A climber should be very proud and happy to be here.

Look at the beautiful panoramic view around, enjoy the crystal clear sunrise, see the other peaks of mountains as Mt. Sindoro, Mt. Sumbing, Mt. Lawu, located hundred km away and the blue South Sea, southward of Yogyakarta and might be a bit worried to watch very closely the active crater with real hot lava inside.

The Ritual Ceremony
Every year in the Javanese New Year, 1st of Suro, the Selo villages make traditional offering to Mt. Merapi, called "Sedekah Gunung" (Mountain offering). They hope to live in safety and good welfare with enough crops from their land. The process of offering starts at the village house and then the burial of a Buffalo head shall take place on the peak of Mt. Merapi, or if the condition is dangerous then it shall be buried in Pasar Bubrah.




More about Merapi’s eruption

When Merapi erupted in the morning July 11, 1998, about 3 million cubic meters of volcanic ash and toxic debris have been spewed from the crater.
After eruption, it "coughs" many times, the noise is like flying supersonic jet. It indicates the boiling magma under the earth is pushing upstairs, it’s blazing.
The blazing process "followed by the emergence of dangerous hot clouds.
The height of hot cloud is about 4 M, and could flow as far as 3 to 4 Km away.
Sometimes it is repeatedly "booming" with horrible sound from inside the crater.
Hot clouds also follow volcanic lava flows.
At present, about 4 million cubic meters of lava are in the mouth of the crater. Its flow must be anticipated soon. Some "lava canals" have been built around the slope to channel its flow.
And then, the time comes when Merapi is again at peace. High, green, beautiful. That’s nature.